Fishermen’s Estonia

Eric Gourlan

On the coast of Loimastu
near Tahkuna village, Hiiumaa parish, Hiiu county, Estonia. March 2001


This is a story of encounters on the shores of the Baltic Sea, or more precisely in Estonia, in the Pärnu region.

The Gulf of Finland is a huge sea that freezes over from the beginning of February. Miniature silhouettes are visible on the horizon — 'Fishermen on the ice are already in the lens of my camera.' I approach them carefully, unsure of the strength of the ice. The further I go, the louder the ice cracks under my feet. Since I don’t know Estonian, the first contact with the fishermen is not easy. To explain my presence, I use sign language.

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

The fishermen, typical Estonians — tall, fit, resisting the cold with their warm hearts. They don’t understand why I need to photograph them, but deep down they have already accepted me. Telling me a lot of fisherman’s jokes, they notice that the ice has broken under the blow of the ice axe and the first hole has appeared. 60 meters away is the second one, into which a stick with a net attached is lowered with frozen hands. It is very hard work. They stretch the net across the water, holding the rope stretched above the icy surface. If the rope is loosened, the net will slip away. 'It worked! The net is stretched under the water! ' During the day, the process is repeated several times at different points, where they move on sleds.

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Like sea wolves, they are solitary in their passion for fishing, they fish in small groups, send the catch for sale to small settlements in the area and are constantly monitored by the port of Munalaiu.

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

The safety of the fishermen is ensured by the so-called 'Mrs. Radio', who calls them 'my grandchildren' in response! She vigilantly monitors radio communications — the lives of the fishermen depend on it. There have been tragedies in the past, but since Ms. Radio has been in control, everything has been uneventful… and I hope it will continue to be so.

Security post for fishermen on the floe
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

Estonian fishermen on the ice
near Munalaiu port, Tõstamaa parish, Pärnu county, Estonia. February 2001

The lighthouse of Kiipsaar
Kihelkonna parish, Saare county, Estonia. March 2001

At sunset, leaving the ice like velvet in the darkness of the night, the silhouettes disappear. A few days later, we are on our way again. Heading North, where the islands of Hiiumaa and Saaremaa reveal their dilapidated ruins to me.

Memories of Estonian fishermen
around Pihtla 
parish, Saare county, Estonia. March 2001

Portrait of a fisherman’s wife
Kuralase 
farm, Kihelkonna parish, Saare county, Estonia. March 2001

Portrait of a fisherman
Undva village, Kihelkonna parish, Saare county, Estonia. March 2001

Portrait of a caretaker in a domestic setting
Kalmu village, Kihelkonna parish, Saare county, Estonia. March 2001

Portrait of a fisherman with his wife and family photo
Undva village, Kihelkonna parish, Saare county, Estonia. March 2001

I see unforgettable portraits of people who once took root on their atolls, people withdrawn, huddled in modest huts. In their eyes, there is life experience with a hint of a hard life. The more I photograph these people, the more I feel the fragility of my own existence, especially through the deep look with which they look at me.

Eric Gourlan 2001


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