Kathmandu: High-altitude anthill

Everything here is permeated with mysticism, but it does not stand out; rather, it dissolves into the everyday life of workers, holidaymakers and believers. It seems as if everything has blended together, permeating everyday life with an invisible light: Hinduism, Buddhism, shamanism, and something else inexplicable, the essence of which is impossible for an inexperienced visitor to understand.

Wherever you may be headed, the first thing you encounter is the bustling city of Kathmandu, where business hustle and bustle merge with complete relaxation. Step outside your hotel and you are met with a cacophony of motorcycles, cars, porters and smiles. The city envelops you, warms you, picks you up and slowly carries you along with its noisy swarm towards your destination. Piles of wires, old houses, dogs unable to lift their heads from gluttony, countless temples and statues of deities, brightly coloured saris, the smells of spices and dusty roads, and the striking, sincere kindness of the people. There is no aggression or malice in their world, and this makes you smile too. 

Darting into any courtyard, you can take a breather in the quiet; the city patiently awaits your return. In the meantime, visit an artist’s studio or play ball with the children.

It’s not yet the season, and you’re the only white person among the locals, mutually interesting and a little alien.

The first encounter was pleasant, albeit somewhat chaotic. In Varanasi, I wasn’t ready for the streets and the huge flow of people. But here, you can stop and breathe in the intoxicating notes of love for this world and for life. A country that produces nothing but happiness. Happiness in the mountains.

However, the abundance of innovations is slowly making adjustments, cementing the unique past. Perhaps in a couple of years, it will be indistinguishable from a European city: everything will be clean, tiled, and socially distanced. The opening of borders has stimulated the economy, but the processes of globalisation are rapidly creating new problems, leading to the depletion of diversity, like any other resource.

Nepal is already facing a transformation of its own culture. Indigenous peoples, coming into contact with other nations, are adopting foreign customs. Development too often results in the loss of traditions. The value system is collapsing, and temptations are arising. We can only hope that Nepal will manage to maintain a balance between the eternal contradiction of traditional culture and the progressive development of civilisation.

But for now, there’s no need to rush anywhere. Time slips away, the air is intoxicating, and a smile never leaves your face.

Nadezhda Khramova 2025