Vietnam: A Necklace for Happy Souls

The north revealed itself through its small mountain peoples: the Black Hmong, the White Hmong, the Coloured Hmong... Blue palms and black-toothed smiles, pirate earrings and bright headscarves on shaved heads. One cannot help but wonder — is it really still possible, in today’s globalised world, to find such rare, distinctive, authentic beauty?

A fine mist in the air, low-hanging clouds... The rainy weather emphasises the region’s unique visual melody: in the lines of the resting rice terraces, in the patterns embroidered by hard-working fingers, in the beat of the gong at a wake. The rain merely adds a special score to the surrounding world.

Early morning at the market. Grandmothers in traditional dress happily pick out new national outfits for themselves, while young girls try on hats shaped like chandeliers. They hold fast to their traditions. Their hearts are free of bitterness; they glow with joy and simple human happiness — be it a shepherd in the mountain jungle, a labourer on the rice terraces, or a fisherman riding the waves in a round tub-boat. They smile genuinely — the soul.

To blend their native roots with the coming, pain with joy, give it a good shake and simply love. To love everything: their own festivals and those brought from elsewhere, the party and religion, sun and rain, guests and enemies; to love the new and the old, work and rest, to love having your photograph taken and simply gazing, to love coffee and tea — how can there be so much love in such a small country? And how have they managed, despite all their sorrows, to retain so much inner radiance?.. If only we could learn this from them.

A dragon winds its way along the ridge, the long echo of Kong’s chest-beating reverberates amongst the green hills, the smell of gunpowder still lingers underground, and the boat glides calmly through the caves, through time. And I know for certain that I will return once more for the priceless beads for my Vietnamese necklace.

Nadezhda Khramova 2026